Setting up the jigs was actually remarkably easy. I used a method I haven't seen documented elsewhere, but there isn't room to describe it here. I call it Jig Squares, and I wrote up a separate document describing it, with pictures. (Pulled from the Wayback Machine,
https://web.archive.org/web/20070702153148/http://www.lucubration.com/greylady/jigsquares/)___________________________________________________________
"Jig Squares
When it came time to do the wings, I spent some time setting up my jigs for Dust's Tee System. Essentially, this method uses a set of dados in each jig edge and "Tee" rails that fit them. This is a good system, but I scrapped it because I found a much faster easier way.
When it came time to set up the jigs, I used a square to draw lines at each jig's location along the table:
Then I used clamping squares to set up the jigs. These squares are guaranteed to be exactly 90 degrees. Don't buy cheap knockoffs. The good ones from Rockler can take 200 lbs of clamping pressure, and if you take the time to really torque down the clamps, there's no need to provide additional support for the jigs. They're incredibly stiff. To seal the deal, I used a pair of screws against (not in, just pressing against) the back of each jig to keep that side from shifting.
Five clamping squares are required, but I only had four. As a quick hack for Jig 5, I cut a hole in a sheet of plywood with two square faces. A clamp on each side had the same effect as a clamping square, and it was a quick, cheap solution. If you do this, use 3/4" plywood - anything thinner won't hold the clamp well enough to get good clamping pressure. (You can drill separate holes if you want more clamps.) Actually, it turned out that my plywood did NOT have a perfect 90-degree angle on it, so I glued on a thin wedge at the top, but it was not a big deal.
The end result is very satisfying. Setting up the jigs takes just a few minutes, and the results are perfectly square, very stiff, and the jig spacing is accurate. You'll notice that I had actually cut the Tee system dado slots already, so I went ahead and put a board in there. It doesn't add any support or alignment to the setup, but it does keep the jigs from falling while I clamp them down.
To each his own. The Tee system is a good recommendation, but if I did it all over again, I wouldn't bother with the slots. You need very good woodworking equipment for that method to work properly - you need the slots to be exactly the same distance from the edges of the jigs, or the Tees will actually misalign them. You also need very straight boards, or to rip plywood tongues very straight, because a slight warp there will also cause a misalignment. Over 128", even a very slight warp can be a big problem. Finally, preparing for the Tee system probably added two hours to my jig construction time, and the clamping squares did the same job with no possibility of error on my part.
The full system requires five clamping squares and ten clamps. If you want to be cheap, you can skip the squares and just use pieces of plywood with perfect 90-degree corners, but check them to make sure you don't need a thin shim to make the angle perfect. Frankly, for $12 each, the clamping squares are worth it - there are a number of other places you can use them to good effect, and they save a lot of time and fiddling.
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Setting up the jigs goes by in minutes with this system. The time recorded here covers the actual creation of the jigs themselves. Note that I could have saved two hours by not cutting the dado slots, which I never used. Dust's Tee system is a very good option, it just wasn't my preference when it came time to actually set things up.
If you use plywood, and you care at all about wood, don't use epoxy for the jig cross pieces. Use wood glue. Not that massive strength is all that important here, but wood glue is always the right choice for a woodworking joint (off the plane). A good glue joint is stronger than the wood itself, and if a separation is forced, the wood around the joint will shatter before the joint lets go.